New Bell & Ross BR05: Hip to be Square?

Bell & Ross are kinda wandering around these days. After establishing their brand with square watches based on airplane instrumentation — “from the cockpit to the wrist” — they’ve been playing around with round dials in their signature style. For the new Bell & Ross BR05, the watchmaker went back to square one . . .

The blue version is the star of the show, blue being the new black. Saying that, two out of the five new models appear in black face (not very PC but there it is). Regardless of dial pop, the 40mm blue Bell doesn’t look entirely comfortable.

Yeah, I noticed it too: the Bell & Ross BR05 has a bit of the “screw you” look of the Genta 70’s fave, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Except way squarer. [Click here to read our comparo.]

Perhaps sir would like his BR05 in gold? In this metal, the way upmarket B&R looks like someone took a hammer to Panerai. Which is not entirely a bad thing. Not because I hate Panerais. Because the Italian Stallion’s mucho macho timepiece of choice is a terrifically legible watch.

Mr. Date Window approves of the way Bell & Ross designed the aperture in question. The color-coordinated, perfectly positioned square frame around the subdued Arabic numeral keeps the watch face satisfyingly balanced.

And take it from old rich guys who wake up in the middle of the night to pee and return to bed to wonder whether it’s time to lay there trying not to think about death or get up and make some coffee, a big bold watch slathered in lume has its charms.

I reckon the real action is behind the scenes, in the BR05’s caseback.

A gorgeous 360-degree oscillating weight spins in full view, powering B&R’s mighty BR-CAL.321 automatic caliber. You could save some money, opt for a strap, refit the watch upside down and go bottoms up. But what kind of man does that?

According to Bell & Ross Co-Founder Bruno Belamich, the BR05 is ideal for “the man about town eager to face the challenges of modern life and in control of time and his own destiny.”

Destiny awaits! BTW, Sir dresses right.