If you want the straight dope on a watch, learn to read between the lines. Hodinkee, Gear Patrol, A Blog to Watch, Quill & Pad, et al. are so deep in manufacturers’ pockets the writers risk lint suffocation. The mainstream horological press has to couch criticism carefully, lest they lose revenue, junkets and access to new models. Check out Quill &Pad’s take on the Chopard Alpine Eagle . . .
In all honesty, the Alpine Eagle doesn’t make it easy for itself with eight screws to secure the bezel and balancing the crown guard on the right by adding some extra metal on the left side. Especially in combination with an integrated bracelet and a blue dial, the brand is almost asking for comparison.
With all dishonesty, writer Martin Green is dancing around a simple fact: the $12,900 Chopard Alpine Eagle tried to replicate the success of the iconic, Gerald Genta designed Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (click here for the inside dope on their genesis and excellence). And failed.
Unlike the less objectionable Bell & Ross BR-05, the Chopard Eagle is not so gently Genta. Chopard’s homage (to be generous) is an overwrought affair with a jarring date window and eight poorly-spaced screws. Everything’s there, but there’s no there there. Houston, the Eagle has not landed.
So it’s no surprise that Mr. Martin gives the Eagle’s dial color and finish a quick thumbs-up before moving on. “Is it all about the bracelet?” a sub-head asks, sending up a [barely disguised] red flag.
The other aspect that makes this watch stand out is the steel of which its case and bracelet are made. Chopard, which has its own forge for gold alloys, developed it in-house and named it Lucent Steel A223. It took them four years to develop and it is ethically produced, much in the same mindset as the Fairmined gold. This is quite an accomplishment as well as a substantial commitment.
While this new type of steel is non-allergenic like surgical steel, it does come with two additional advantages. First, it is 50 percent harder than many other steels, which is a good thing when you are making a high-end sports-like watch.
You notice this when wearing it because I noticed it being less prone to scratching. The other advantage is the way it looks and reflects light when finished. Chopard calls this “ethereal incandescence,” and how right that description is!
Ethereal as in “lacking material substance: immaterial, intangible”? Nope, that’s just me being snarky. But while I’m at it, did Mr. Martin purposefully attempt to scratch the Eagle’s bracelet to test its resistance? I think not.
I’d like a better description of “ethically produced” steel – one of the watch’s main PR points. Meanwhile, bracelet schmacelet. What about Chopard shaping the Eagle’s second hand like an eagle’s feather? And what of the crown? You gotta love Chopard’s metaphorical stretch, trying to link it to the watch’s PC Eagle’s Nest theme.
Evoking a spirit of adventure, the crown is engraved with a compass rose, an instrument that has helped adventurers find their way since ancient times. Today, it becomes the emblem of contemporary eagles capable of choosing the right direction in the pursuit of their destiny, an invitation to explore the majesty of the natural world that surrounds us.
Did someone tell the contemporary eagles they have a new emblem? And while they’re at, please inform Mr. Martin that he’s going to have to work harder to hide his true feelings about the Chopard Alpine Eagle.
In all honesty, I seriously doubt if people who are in the market for a Patek Philippe Nautilus or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak will even consider anything else. For people who are looking for something different, though, the Alpine Eagle might be right up their alleys.
While the Alpine Eagle doesn’t come cheap, its price is justified. In part because of its chronometer-certified manufacture movement, but more so because of its amazing dial and ethically produced Lucent Steel A223.
In all honesty, no. The Chopard Alpine Eagle is a swing-and-a-miss. A big whiff. Unless you read uncensored comments sections and forums, please remember: you heard it here first.